Well I write this from my hotel in Nashville TN, unfortunately the purpose of my visit is not climbing but I have managed to get to the gym for some bouldering. Interestingly the gym here does not use the V scale but a competion scale that goes something like
R1-10 (recreational/beginner) - V0-V2
I1-10 (Intermediate) - V3-4
A1-10 (Advanced) - V5-6
O1-10 (Open) V6+
This is somewhat confusing but really I've never bouldered on a V scale anyways so who am I to complain. I talked with the guy at the gym and he explained what I already knew, that grading indoors is difficult as it doesn't represent the outdoors well and so they use the above 4 categories with 1-10 getting progressively harder as a method to group similar apparent grades. All really sensible, I wonder if the Australian comps will ever catch on?
As I said I'm not a bouderer, I very rarely boulder at the moment and so I was pleasantly surprised to be bouldering solidly in the I's and managed A1 after a few attempts. Not really anything brag worthy but it does give me a rough (very) idea of where I sit within the John Sherman V-grade bouldering system. Looking forward to playing on some more problems before heading home Wednesday next week.
As mentioned in my previous post I hadn't done a lot of climbing outdoors due to shoes becoming an issue, although we did head to Wungong Slabs for some nice climbing. Looking forward to trying out the new shoes on real rock, I actually have two new pairs, the first being La Sportiva Testerossa's and the second being Evolv Evo, both pairs are nice although both will be used for different purposes. As a side note I replaced my harness also, this is due to them getting to big! apparently I'm losing some of the spare tire around my waist which is always a good thing.
Enough babbling, time to do some more work.
No comments:
Post a Comment