New Shoes and US climbing gyms

Well I write this from my hotel in Nashville TN, unfortunately the purpose of my visit is not climbing but I have managed to get to the gym for some bouldering. Interestingly the gym here does not use the V scale but a competion scale that goes something like
R1-10 (recreational/beginner) - V0-V2
I1-10 (Intermediate) - V3-4
A1-10 (Advanced) - V5-6
O1-10 (Open) V6+

This is somewhat confusing but really I've never bouldered on a V scale anyways so who am I to complain. I talked with the guy at the gym and he explained what I already knew, that grading indoors is difficult as it doesn't represent the outdoors well and so they use the above 4 categories with 1-10 getting progressively harder as a method to group similar apparent grades. All really sensible, I wonder if the Australian comps will ever catch on?

As I said I'm not a bouderer, I very rarely boulder at the moment and so I was pleasantly surprised to be bouldering solidly in the I's and managed A1 after a few attempts. Not really anything brag worthy but it does give me a rough (very) idea of where I sit within the John Sherman V-grade bouldering system. Looking forward to playing on some more problems before heading home Wednesday next week.

As mentioned in my previous post I hadn't done a lot of climbing outdoors due to shoes becoming an issue, although we did head to Wungong Slabs for some nice climbing. Looking forward to trying out the new shoes on real rock, I actually have two new pairs, the first being La Sportiva Testerossa's and the second being Evolv Evo, both pairs are nice although both will be used for different purposes. As a side note I replaced my harness also, this is due to them getting to big! apparently I'm losing some of the spare tire around my waist which is always a good thing.

Enough babbling, time to do some more work.

Long Time....

Been a long time since I updated this, mostly because I've been busy with life. Not to mention the deteriating shoe situation, both pairs are beyond saving now so hoping the trip to the US will help rectify that problem.

I've managed to do quite a bit of Trad and I'm starting to lead upto around the 17 mark cleanly at Churchmans. Looking forward to doing alot more Trad climbing as I become more confident. Really enjoyed Playboy (17) on lead although I'm not sure my belayer enjoyed it as much despite me getting up cleanly.

In sport climbing I've finally managed to make progress on Real Life Ambition (21), linking the majority of moves but falling once at the crux. hoping with some more effort and new shoes that don't have holes in the toes that I'll have it completed soon. Commitment on the lead end is the major issue although I am getting better, this will just take some time.

Last Weekend we went to Wungong for the day, this was good as last time I went I didn't lead and that was almost 12 months ago from memory! Started out with Crossroads (18**) followed by Dead Seal (17*), both of which went cleanly. After that it was onto Easy Street (14*) and No Holds Barred (15) which all went really well. I missed out on jumping on Whisper(17***), but I was happy with all the other leads that I had done that day.

Hoping to get out side once more before my trip to Nasheville TN for work. Will have to work on doing a little more climbing as I have dropped back to around twice a week recently and I'd prefer to see that at around three times a week, this seems to be the best number for me to avoid injury and improve.

As a side note, the ankle injury I sustained climbing last year is not good. Finally got off my butt and went to the doctor, the Xrays show bone spurs and some bone fragments are lose in the ankle... all in all not an ideal situation. Guess it'll be on to the specialist in the next few months to find out what they want to do.

Winters Effect

Well Winter is finally setting in here which means a distinct lack of outdoor climbing. Thats OK, I'm planning on using this time to get stronger and develop my technique so come dry days I'll be up and about and hopefully break this plateau.

I've been doing some good climbing at Urban Ascent, 21's are now well within reach usually as I am getting very close to doing them without falls. 22's are seeming easier also. 

Climbing at Rockface usually sees me hitting the lead wall at least 2-3 times on grade 18's plus, this is going to be the interesting part as my stamina at present is low and although I can do the moves I get pumped out. 

Looking forward to getting back outdoors very very soon

Goal Update

Well It's a little late but summer is officially over and as we are half way to winter its probably a good idea to look at the goals I set back in January.

As part of this I need to set some goals, this year I am being fairly optemistic with my goal setting;

1. Do a trad course and improve so I can confidently lead trad routes.
2. Climb my first grade 21, this will most likely be Real Life Ambition.
3. By the end of the year climb my first 22.
4. Climb in at least 2 places I have not climbed before.

Looking at the above I have managed to achieve only one of my goals thus far although number one's improvement is good. Here is the status so far;

1. I have not signed up for nor done a trad course, I am becoming confident in my placements and anchor systems. The trad course is definitely still on the cards though as I still feel there is much to learn.

2. This is still a work in progress. I've spent only two days (about 4-5 hrs) projecting the route. The crux remains  an issue but everything leading up to this seems easier.

3. I think this will be achievable, Stolen Glory is looking like the goal route, the moves are all doable I just need to go for it harder with only 2 hrs put into projecting it.

4. I have actually done this as I climbed at both Mt Cuthbert and Bob's Hollow. This I think is key to improving as it provides variety and gives some new challenges. 

Realistically I need more time on lead, this is going to be a focus over the next few months particularly when it comes to harder grades. I'm starting to see the idea behind the pyramid idea proposed in alot of books, this means I really need to go and backfill my current pyramid. I 'm being overly nerdy and have started a spreadsheet of climbs that I have done and that are readily available, this should help see some good progress being made.

ANZAC long weekend

Well the weekend has been and gone and what a weekend! A group of us stayed in Dunsborough and climbed at Willyabrup (Saturday and Sunday) and Bob's Hollow (Monday). Most days we got a late start, hitting the crag around 10 with Sunday being closer to 1pm. The weather turned out to be perfect on all three days with the only rain being on Sunday night briefly.

Saturday was a good day for top roping, I did a lead on Fairy Floss (12) and that was about the extent of my leading for the day. We ended up top roping Right Hand Crack (16), Woman Accept it for what it is (20) , English Ethics (20).

Sunday was a late day and so only got 2-3 climbs in but was climbing much better. I did Hope (14) on lead, where the snake was nowhere to be seen, before heading over and doing a number of top rope routes. The guide is not in front of me and I can't remember the climbs names.

Monday we headed to Bob's and it didn't disappoint! We took the walk in from Conto's and made good time starting the climbing at around 11 am. The goal was to be out around 2.3pm for the trip back to civilization. I got in two climbs, the first was a lead on a climb to the left of lovers nuts, the guide placed it at an 18 which sounds about right. We followed up that effort by heading over to Shaved Cat which I ended up seconding.

Although the volume of climbing and particularly leading was low for me I had a great weekend out on the rock, the trad climbing was great fun and I am becoming happier with my placements. Bob's was a real challenge and I now appreciate the power endurance of truly overhung natural walls as these are hard to find outside around Perth. I'd like to thank everyone who came out climbing and stayed the weekend as without you guys the trip would of been no where near as exciting. looking forward to future trips with awesome friends.

Gym Climbing.... need I say more

Well last Wednesday I spent the evening climbing at Rockface. I did OK for the most part but my overhung leading has suffered badly. I guess I should try and get in there more and lead all night rather than the last climbs of the evening but that is how things are.

I'm off to UA tonight for some fun as it's nice and wet outdoors. Looks like winter is coming quickly so days outside may soon be limited.

RLA kicked me in the nuts

I know I haven't posted much lately but between work and being slack its been hard on the climbing time.

Since Monday was a holiday I spent it in a rock quarry. I got to meet a new climber and spent most of my time falling and/or sitting around on one of my projects. I warmed up on Blah, Blah, Blah (16) and moved on to the project Real Life Ambition (21). given it was my second "go" on the climb it went well. The first section felt pretty good, much much better than it did the first time. This time I pumped out just before the crux, the good holds put me in different positions to Blair due to height differences. Either way I spent about 2 hours climbing, falling and pumping out.

I eventually lowered and Blair gave it a good go, he's only completed the climb once and it wasn't his day either. On the bright side the temps are dropping and soon it'll be cold days, this is both good and bad but hopefully the rain stays away from the weekends. Statham's is probably going to be my winter haunt while I try and figure out Real Life Ambition and Stolen Glory. Both seem doable with Stolen Glory being more balance and RLA being both technical and pumpy.

Ambitious

I've been busy the past couple of weeks and haven't done much climbing or training... I like to look at it as a rest period.

Thursday was relatively good at the gym with ealr climbs being done nice and smoothly, the last climb a new 18 just wasn't working for me... unsure why, but either way I was a little stiff and sore leading into the weekend.

Sunday saw an early morning start and it was good, started on Kid Rock (17) and then messed around on Bonk Night Out (23) and Stolen Glory (22). Bonk Night Out is a little beyond me at present, it requires a powerful move off small crimps, I didn't manage the crux on either climb, however Stolen Glory looks and feels doable and it was more a mental blank on how to position myself to make use of the holds.The crux is well protected so it should be a good lead once I get my head together, the move hinges on being able to get your right foot just a little higher which allows for the balance to move over to the left foot and allow the high left reach. The section after the crux is fairly straightforward. I finished up with a nice run up Morning Glory (16).

I'm looking forward to trying both Stolen Glory and Real Life Ambition next time, it'd be a good day to nail both my first 21 and 22 in one day.

Inconvenience

Well best laid plans never workout the way they're supposed to. I started last week with a trip to Rockface for a 1.5hr bouldering session that went really well. I'm noticing progress in grip strength and made good progress on a couple of hard (for me) bouldering problems.

Thursday I didn't end up doing much climbing as I fell doing a traverse and sprained my left ankle, this messed up the weekend plans so no where near as much climbing was done.

This week the plans are: Rockface tonight, Urban Ascent on Thursday and a day climbing outdoors on the weekend. Next week I'm off to Melbourne for the week so I'll try and get to one of the gyms over there for somewhere different. If I had leave I'd stick around for the weekend but not possible at present... I'm sure I'll be over there again soon.

Yet Another lazy week

I really need to get my crap together, the past week has been fairly average. It started with an hr or so Bouldering at Rockface where I seem to finally be seeing the improvement from hangboard training. fingers seem to hold the small crimps and rap odd holds much better.

I've continued with the hangboard training and am beginning to use the small pockets, the crimps are still beyond me but after a few weeks I've seen good improvement given the one or two sessions a week I'm currently doing.

Sunday I got out to Mountain Quarry, I originally had plans of giving some new climbs a bash, all around the 18-20 range, unfortunately I left the guide at home and motivation was lacking. I warmed up on Penthouse (18) and found it much easier to lead this time around. I then did Mortal Wombat (20) the correct way staying right of the bolt lines as the guide recommends. I didn't have any major issues with it until I went to clip the last bolt, I messed up the footwork and ended up down climbing to a rest position a few times. I eventually found the foothold I was missing and it made things much easier.

All in all it was an average week. This week I've promised myself at least two sessions on the hangboard and another 2-3 session in the gym/outdoors bouldering and/or climbing routes.

Lazy Sunday

Well Sunday's climb turned out pretty good with three of us heading to Mountain Quarry for a leisurely climb. I ended up leading three climbs as time was short.

1. Bumble Sea (11)
2. Penthouse (18)
3. Frustration & Contempt (16)

All in all it was good despite the lack of "hard grades" as Penthouse I have not climbed on lead before. We had planned on taking a run up Mortal Wombat (20) but hunger and time where not on my side. My lead head was vastly better than the previous weekend. I need to start picking the climbs better as the climbs listed are not overly taxing, Penthouse will probably become a good warm up as the first 3/4 is really straightforward.

Additionally the hangboard training is actually starting to show improvement, that is I can actually hang off more than two holds. Obviously its got a way to go yet but improvement here should show good gains as I think my finger/contact strength is one of the areas that is letting me down at present, especially on small holds.

Weekend of Crapness

Well Last weekend was a fail on the climbing side, only one new lead climb done, the rest was all top ropes. Still it was good to get out with good company to a few new locations.

Saturday: Mt Cuthbert
I've remembered why I dislike slab, it's normally run out here, my lead head is not what it should be. Despite being able to do the moves I couldn't bring myself to lead the full climbs. Warming up on Quiver was probably my first mistake.

Sunday: Churchman's Brook
Some fun climbs although most of my time was taken up with setting up climbs with Eve. Was good to practise some trad placements. First route (15) was also done on lead, for the grade it has some dodgey moves.

I need to sort out my mind and get it back into leading mode, guess its a work in progress.

Sunday climbing

Well went out to Stathams Quarry today, only did a few climbs,
Blah Blah Blah (16)
Kid Rock (17)
Hipster Crack (15)

I also did Mount Everest on top rope, but really my lead head wasn't there and I felt like an easy day as my wrist is still not comfortable under weight. Writing it down it looks like a mediocre session given I was there for 5hrs or so, but we did have some beginners and lots of socialising. Time to pull my finger out...

Fingerboarding

Well I finally went and bought a fingerboard. After looking around I decided to buy something other than the Metolious range, mostly because these have huge jugs that I know I can hang off and would not be inclined to try the smaller holds. Instead I decided on a Moon hangboard, these are marketed at intermediate/advanced climbers and honestly they re not wrong.


The board itself is great and after an hour putting it up (stupid wood is freaking hard) I managed to get onto it for the first time. First impressions are it's hard! All holds are 1-1.5 finger bads deep, I can hang off the 2 largest holds but need support on the smaller more crimpy holds. I'm thinking my contact strength is way below what it should be given, this will not make my wife happy as she thinks I have a strong enough grip already. Unfortunately I had to mount the board lower than I would of liked, but it is still very useable.


My goal was to be able to do the sample workout as listed on moonclimbing.com which is reproduced below.


1. Double armed dead hang on front three fingers open handed. (hold 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 2 minutes between each.

2. Double armed dead hang on middle two fingers open handed. (hold 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times resting 1.5 minutes between each.

3. Hang open handed on three fingers on one arm, decrease resistance as required until hang can be completed. (hold 2 or 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.

Rest 5 minutes.

4. Double armed hang on full crimp position, on a first joint edge. (hold 1 or 5)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.

5. Double armed hang on full crimp, this time slightly smaller than the last set, i.e., _ of the the finger tip. (hold 3 or 4)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat three hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.

6. Single arm hang on 1st joint edge, decrease resistance if required until hang can be completed. ( hold 1, 5, or 4 depending on level)

Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.

Rest 5-8 minutes (and prepare for some arm and body work!)

A. Single arm lock off at 90 degrees see pics. If required use the assistance of a bungee cord or pulley system. Try to stay as open as possible rather than twisting your body in to lock off. (hold 1 or 5)

Lock off for between 8 and 10 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 2 minutes between each rep.

B. One armed pull ups, again assistance may be required using a bungee cord or a pulley system.(see video here). (hold 1)

Keeping your body as open as possible Try to complete 2 one armed pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm.

C. Leg lifts/ Front levers. Depending on your ability either do front levers or leg lifts. (hold 1)

If doing front levers, complete three sets of front levers holding each set for 5 to 8 seconds. If doing leg lifts complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times. 


It is going to take me awhile to get to that level so instead I'm going to aim for repeaters. Essentially it involves hanging off a hold for a period of time then reducing the hold size and period so for example 5 seconds on a #1, 3 seconds on #2 etc etc. Unfortunately until I get some more strength its going to limit holds I can use but that is what it's all about, improvement.


Tomorrow I'm off to Stathams Quarry for the afternoon, hopefully I'll be climbing well.

Nutrition

Nutrition is always talked about and for the most part is ignored by most people as it is hard to stick with, not to mention figure out. The issue with nutrition is that information varies and quiet often conflicts depending on the source. sport nutrition can be even more vague particularly when looking at the breakdown of intake. Although not strictly related to climbing I'm looking at it due to wanting to improve my climbing ability.

I'm about to embark on a journey into nutrition for climbing to see if it helps my climbing and if I can loose the belly fat that seems to be hanging around. After much research I've balanced out the intake requirements that I'll be aiming for;

• 15% Fat
• 65% Carbs
• 20% Protein

Depending on the sources the above figures vary up to 10%. Along with this I'm aiming to cut down on some other things for example caffinated drinks (I've been addicted to the stuff for as long as I can remember. I also plan to reduce my Sodium intake to less than 2000mg, apparently the ideal is approximately 1600mg but given processed food is still on the menu this will be hard. Water intake will also be improved, I normally aim for 1.5L of water a day, this gives me a little more than the recommended 8 cups of water, the issue is I am at present riding about 10km+ on weekdays, kendo once or twice a week (1.5hrs a session) and climbing 2-3 times a week (1-2hr sessions). I really should be drinking 2-3L a day.

This is really just a target for me to attain, the hard parts will be removing the caffiene and reducing the amount of crap I eat on a daily basis. I'm also curious to see the effect this will have on my climbing. I'll adjust the targets in a few months after trying to get everything in line.

It occurred to me...

It occurred to me that in todays modern age we all want results fast, this makes things interesting particularly when we are trying to achieve things out of the ordinary. It also means that we often give up even though progress is being made toward the end goal.

Last year I decided to start taking climbing seriously, get down to the gym atleast twice a week and out on real rock atleast once a week. For the most part this went well not counting the fall and recovery period. Toward the end of December up until now I have simply been lazy climbing sporadically and not really acheiving much. My goal this year is to start tracking what I'm doing to improve and to track the improvement.

As part of this I need to set some goals, this year I am being fairly optemistic with my goal setting;

1. Do a trad course and improve so I can confidently lead trad routes.
2. Climb my first grade 21, this will most likely be Real Life Ambition.
3. By the end of the year climb my first 22.
4. Climb in at least 2 places I have not climbed before.

number's 1 and 2 are fairly straightforward goals and should be attainable before winter so these are the short/mid term goals. Numbers 3 and 4 are more of long term goals. Well enough dribble lets see how things progress.

Climb On.