Yet Another lazy week

I really need to get my crap together, the past week has been fairly average. It started with an hr or so Bouldering at Rockface where I seem to finally be seeing the improvement from hangboard training. fingers seem to hold the small crimps and rap odd holds much better.

I've continued with the hangboard training and am beginning to use the small pockets, the crimps are still beyond me but after a few weeks I've seen good improvement given the one or two sessions a week I'm currently doing.

Sunday I got out to Mountain Quarry, I originally had plans of giving some new climbs a bash, all around the 18-20 range, unfortunately I left the guide at home and motivation was lacking. I warmed up on Penthouse (18) and found it much easier to lead this time around. I then did Mortal Wombat (20) the correct way staying right of the bolt lines as the guide recommends. I didn't have any major issues with it until I went to clip the last bolt, I messed up the footwork and ended up down climbing to a rest position a few times. I eventually found the foothold I was missing and it made things much easier.

All in all it was an average week. This week I've promised myself at least two sessions on the hangboard and another 2-3 session in the gym/outdoors bouldering and/or climbing routes.

Lazy Sunday

Well Sunday's climb turned out pretty good with three of us heading to Mountain Quarry for a leisurely climb. I ended up leading three climbs as time was short.

1. Bumble Sea (11)
2. Penthouse (18)
3. Frustration & Contempt (16)

All in all it was good despite the lack of "hard grades" as Penthouse I have not climbed on lead before. We had planned on taking a run up Mortal Wombat (20) but hunger and time where not on my side. My lead head was vastly better than the previous weekend. I need to start picking the climbs better as the climbs listed are not overly taxing, Penthouse will probably become a good warm up as the first 3/4 is really straightforward.

Additionally the hangboard training is actually starting to show improvement, that is I can actually hang off more than two holds. Obviously its got a way to go yet but improvement here should show good gains as I think my finger/contact strength is one of the areas that is letting me down at present, especially on small holds.

Weekend of Crapness

Well Last weekend was a fail on the climbing side, only one new lead climb done, the rest was all top ropes. Still it was good to get out with good company to a few new locations.

Saturday: Mt Cuthbert
I've remembered why I dislike slab, it's normally run out here, my lead head is not what it should be. Despite being able to do the moves I couldn't bring myself to lead the full climbs. Warming up on Quiver was probably my first mistake.

Sunday: Churchman's Brook
Some fun climbs although most of my time was taken up with setting up climbs with Eve. Was good to practise some trad placements. First route (15) was also done on lead, for the grade it has some dodgey moves.

I need to sort out my mind and get it back into leading mode, guess its a work in progress.